Pachacutec

Today, September 23, Alison started on her journey to Africa. She left for Philadelphia and in a few days will fly to Mozambique. Of course, we cried as we said good-bye to her on the phone this morning. But we got a chance to cry again later in the day. Crying is good.

Tomorrow, the 24th, Olga starts her class. She will be working in the parochial office of a catholic church in a part of Arequipa called Pachacutec. There are a couple of churches in the parish and we went to mass in this one this morning.
Pachacutec Semi-rural

The priest who is helping Olga is Jean Alain Leroux. He is from France and is working on his second 10-year assignment here. The church is cavernous and it is very hard to hear but you can tell people are involved since everyone went up to get a bath. Father Leroux had six 3-liter soda bottles filled with water that he liberally sprayed on people. Anyone out there who (knows any people who) would like to help a catholic church that needs a lot can contact JeanAlainLeroux@yahoo.com.
A blessing

The father also runs a home for young boys who for one reason or another don't live with their parents. Some most certainly have no parents. The boys do all the cooking so we are told. A big part of the mass is the blessing of all the children. They all run up to give him a kiss.
Another Blessing

I told you I had a chance to cry again. Three times today, Father Leroux mentioned our daughter, Alison, and that fact that she was going to Africa to work with the orphans of AIDS. He called it a "mission". Of course, I cried each time I heard her name.

After church we walked over to the parochial office to leave some supplies. Here is where Olga will hold her class.
La Paroquia
Once Olga knows her students better we will put up some pictures.

Cusco

We paid a visit to Cusco almost as soon as Ali arrived. Cusco is about 4000 feet higher than Arequipa. It is a lot cooler and has a definite mountain-valley sense to it.

Convento Santa Catalina

This convent is one of the oldest in the Americas and certainly the biggest. It has several streets inside the convent, neighbourhoods - a city within a city. For about 30 years now it has been open to the public and the nuns have moved elsewhere.
typical street
The tour is very nice. The guides are not permitted to mention any money so you just have to guess what is appropriate to give them. Or you can just walk and admire
street corner

There is a square, with a fountain, where the nuns used to come on a saturday afternoon and trade small things they had made among themselves. They had no contact with people beyond the walls except under strict supervision.

the trading square

After we finished our tour we found a small corner and took a break. It is hot here but as soon as you move into the shade you feel better. The heat is not oppressive.

A cool spot

Right beside where we were sitting were a double row of places to wash clothes. Water ran down the central spine and you simply put your hand across the channel to divert water into your basin.
Washing Stations

There were several kitchens, some communal and some private, but the fireplace in each of them looked more or less like this one. That inverted cone by the fireplace is a water filter. It is a hollowed-out stone. There is no hole in it, the walls are a couple of inches thick. Water just seeps through. What comes out the bottom is safe to drink even if what goes in the top is not.

A fireplace
The colors chosen are supposed to be similar to the original colors. They certainly brighten up the place.


Ali in a Doorway
Ali was in the mood to pose so there are a few of her.

Ali in a window

There is a first time for everything. Ali at confession. I don't think anyone is listening.

Ali at Confession

Another rest. The pace here is slow enough that you really never feel rushed. Even in going to work. I want to get to work by 9:15? Then I leave home at 9:05, walk downstairs, hail a taxi (there is a taxi stand near our home) and am in school by 9:11.

Olga and Ali
Just to prove I was there.


Andy and Ali

Plaza de Yanahuara

This is one of the charming places of Arequipa. We discovered it one day while out walking and I wanted Alison to see it for the first time in the same way but we arrived by taxi.

The plaza is known for its mirador - lookout. It has a clear view over the tops of nearby houses to the volcano Misty.
Looking Towards Misty

It is just a pretty little park with nice old buildings surrounding it.

A View of the Park

Do we look like we are relaxed. That's the operative word around here.
Andy and Olga

It is interesting that you come here to see beautiful things in the distance - the volcano, for example. But they make the place where you are standing just as beautiful in its own way; perhaps even more so.
The Arches

The arches you see all have carved quotes from famous Arequpeños. People come here to admire and remember.

Of course, there is always a church.

The Church of Plaza Yanahuara

Arequipa is called the White City because of the building stone called sillar. It is very manageable so the stone work and carving can be extraordinary.

Below the arches there is a large pergola of sorts with lots of pillars and a vine overhead. Pigeons sit on top of the pillars and shit on you if you are not careful.
Pergola


Opposite the church is the municipality building. Thus it is in every plaza in the country. What I like about it is the front door.

La Municipalidad de Yanahuara

Even the trees are beautiful here. What tree wouldn't be with a manicure (or is it pedicure) like that.

Well-groomed tree

Just off the plaza there is a small street; typical of the hidden-away kind of place you find here.
Callejon del Cabildo

The carving over the arch says,

Vaga junto al fogon de la ramada 
El alma popular que fué senera, 
Que si supo llorar junto a la amada, 
Supo tambien morir en la trinchera.


Alberto Ballon Landa 1885-1964. 

Some day I'll translate it.


Finally, one more look at those arches. I'm sorry I didn't actually photograph all of the quotes over all the arches.

The arches again

Plaza de Armas, Arequipa

We have been holding off doing a lot of tourist things until Ali came to visit. So, here she is
Alison and her Dad
That's the main cathedral in the background, looking across La Plaza de Armas, which is the main square in Arequipa. It is busy all the time and beautifully lit at night. Here she is again, with mamae
Ali and her Mom

We haven't shown you many pictures of Peruvians. Here is a kid who was obviously enjoying himself.
They're not dirty, mom.

There is a lot more to show you of La Plaza de Armas but today just the cathedral.

The Cathedral
That bell tower was destroyed by an earthquake not too many years ago. Peru is lucky to still have masons who still do that kind of work.

The Bell
Notice that the bell is hanging from a tree trunk.

Finally, Ali beside a door. The doors in Arequipa could occupy a book. Everywhere you look they are like treasures.
A door and Ali

I haven't seen doors like this since Zanzibar.